Riding the Kemmelberg

by John · January 30, 2014

After many years of fighting over a few metres, in April 1918 the situation abruptly changed when the German army attacked (Battle of the Lys) and caught the undermanned and under-resourced Portuguese defenders off-guard as they were about to be relieved by French soldiers. Despite some stiff resistance by the Portuguese and British defenders they were overwhelmed, and even the dispatching of reserves, including the British 11th Cyclist Battalion, could not stem the German advance. The Kemmelberg, Scherpenberg, Messine Village and Ridge and much of the strategic ground was now in German hands and the allies were on the brink of defeat.

As you pedal through the area you can see very obvious signs of the carnage that befell these Belgian hills and fields. The roads leading to it are lined with monuments to countries from across the World (Australian and New Zealand troops being very numerous), including small and large military cemeteries. The Ossuary on the south side of the Kemmelberg contains the bones of French soldiers and it is here where you can find the best views toward Ypres.

The Ypres Salient viewed from the French Ossuary

The Kemmelberg was chewed deep into its Flanders mud by the carnage of battle and now trees grow through the jagged war torn landscape. Should you linger on the Kemmel, you do get the feeling that the woods are creeping up on you when you turn your back to them…

Best known to cyclist’s for its role in the Gent Wevelgem pro-cycle race the Kemmelberg is mostly approached from Messine with a sharp left turn onto the climb. However, having ridden through Kemmel Village we left the tarmac and turned right onto the cobbles. At this point any thoughts of wars or legend count for nought as the climb begins almost at once with no real chance to prepare. If you spend too much time thinking or looking for a smoother ride you lose pedalling revs, and then you really have to battle to recover. The best tactic is to hit it hard and take it as it comes; and only begin to adjust your path once you are well onto the pave. The pave itself is pretty uneven and really batters your wheels. We suggest that you follow the general rule of pave riding: that is to keep your momentum up, so don’t waste energy looking for an easier ride.

The hardest section of the Kemelberg is as it curves to the left and this is where the gradient bites hardest. Although you may think that the curve allows you some respite, you’re mistaken; it merely sends you off line into the kerb stones, ill preparation for the final sting, as you fight to crest the ascent. If you are going to put a foot down it will be here. I was once on the Kemmelberg in winter rain and fading light, when a father and his two sons were riding up towards us – we had just discovered that yet again the Kemmel Cafe was closed (is it ever open?). The smallest of the three (maybe 11 years old) followed and as he hit the curve his rear wheel slipped bringing him to a halt. Did he get back on and ride the rest? No. He went down to the bottom and rode the whole climb again!

Atop the climb the pave turns to tarmac and takes you past a NATO bunker, part of which is also situated further down the wooded slopes and which was once a prime air defence control centre, now open to the public. You pass a posh, out of place looking hotel and at the end of the ridge is the massive monument to fallen French soldiers. This monument offers a great resting point and a chance for reflection.

The French memorial on the Kemmelberg

Until recently the Gent Wevelgem cycle race plunged down the 23-25% gradient of the cobbled descent. When you approach, it feels like you are about to jump off the edge of the world. We challenge anyone not to be scared on this descent and to cut your speed suddenly (a major cause of crashes). A visit to the French Ossuary to the left is a good enough reason to stop as any. In 2007 Jimmy Casper fell triggering a major and serious crash, and since then the race has avoided the descent and follows a tarmacked, slim winding path to the bottom.

Video of Jimmy Casper’s 2007 crash